Climbing Topos, Southern Thailand- Ao Loaliang
Climbing Topos | Climbing Loaliang
The Climbing here was pioneered by Trevor, the man who gave us the Keep, one of my favorite climbing spots in Thailand. The climbs here are an interesting mixture of roofs and some facy technical stuff. All in all very good. Thanks to Trevor, Steve, and others!
The Topos below have all been kindly provided by Steve. If there are any corrections please email us and we will change them. As there have not been that many people here the grades are only just being bedded down. There has been a bit of haggling and revision, and I think the grades below are pretty fair, certainly with a + of accuracy...
The Bay
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This is the first wall you come to walking down the beach, the closest wall to the tents. 2. Need Deet** 6b+ 3. Something For Nothing*** 7a 4. Johann** 6a+ 5. Chillin’ Like A Villain** 6a+ |
Ocean Wall
6. Lip Service** 7a+
On the right side of the first tufa. Follows lip to the right and then up and around hanging tufa to the arete. Backclean the
first few draws to reduce rope drag.
Eric Ruderman, Trevor Massiah
7. Raarh*** 7b+
Shares the start with Lip Service.
Trevor Massiah, Eric Ruderman
8. Melting*** 7b+
Suman
9. Bangkok Coconut Mafia** 6c
Team Chaos
10. Crawling King Snake** 6c+
Two anchors here. If you just go to the first anchor it's an easy 6a. If you go all the way to the second anchor (you can do this with a 60m rope) then it's a 6c+
Team Chaos
11. Chasing Fish* 6a+
Trevor Massiah, Steve Findley
12. Blood Meridian** 6b+
Team Chaos
13. All Right* 6b
Bristol Paul
14. X-site One* 6a+
X-site Team
15. X-site Two* 6a+
X-site Team
16. Captain Fat** 7a+, 6c
Trevor Massiah, Steve Findley
17. Liger*** 7a
Similar to The Lion King of Ton Sai beach,
but better.
Suman
The following 2 routes are on the top at the far right of Ocean Wall:
18. Monsoon** 6a, 6c+
Can be lead in one pitch. Can rappel to middle anchor, then to ground with one 60 meter rope.
Mike Weitzman, Trevor Massiah
19. Top View* 6a
X-site Team
Hollow Wall and Red Wall
The following are on Hollow Wall:
20. Num Chai** 6b, 6b
Team Chaos
21. Chaotic Tranquility** 6b, 6b+
Tash Smith, Ton
22. Fearsome Engine** 6a+, 6b+
Trevor Massiah, Dave Pickford
23. Hangin’ Arete** 7a+, 7b
Trevor Massiah, Dave Pickford
24. 50 Dollar Meat Wallet*** 7b+ (after first ascent) 8
Backclean first two draws.
Eric Ruderman, Marlon Campos 2006-03-10
25. The General*** 6c (after first ascent) 8
Shares the start and anchor with 50 Dollar Meat Wallet. Backclean first two draws.
Marlon Campos, Eric Ruderman 2006-03-10
26. Flying Snake* 6b, 7a
Very run out.
Dave Pickford
27. House Of The Rising Sun*** 6b, 6a, 6b
Most popular multipitch. Climb up the left ladder and move right. Fist anchor hanging belay, you could climb past it and belay
from the large ledge of the second pitch. Third pitch is 33 meters long. From the top of the third pitch you can rappel to the
beach, with two 60 meter ropes. The 4th pitch is solo through the slot in the ceiling of the cave. Ends up on top of the island in the most amazing jungle.
General Shamick, Nick, Nancy
The Following climbs are on the amazingly photogenic Red Wall:
28. Golden*** 6c
Best 6C in Thailand...
Trevor Massiah, Mike Weitzman
29. Pansies Need Chalk** 7a
Trevor Massiah, Steve Findley
30. Fools Gold*** 7b
Trevor Massiah
31. Napalm In The Morning* 5
Dave Pickford
32. Agent Orange* 5
Dave Pickford
Easter Wall
Get dropped off by a kayak. Two fixed lines up to belay ledge. Solo up on left rope.
33. Wild Side*** 6c+, 7a
Trevor Massiah
34. The Way Of The Sarge*** 7a
Trevor Massiah, Mike Weitzman
35. Viper Goes Free*** 6b (after first ascent) 11
The most exposed sea cliff climbing in Thailand on a fantastic wall. You can rappel the right rope to the beginning of the
climb. Alternative link up to Wild Side.
Oskar Norberg, Marlon Campos, General Shamick 2006-03-10
King on red wall